Jun 18, 2019

Back in Black

Black Faceless 180SX Looking Awesome

by Dustin Mankin



Well, I just renewed my domain for two years at 36 bones, so I better use it! And what better way to use it than this! Man oh man is this 180SX gorgeous. I actually shot this a while back, and found these pictures while I was digging up some footage for the Project 180 series on our YouTube Channel ( www.youtube.com/exitevideomagazine ). I don't know why I didn't share it sooner, but as soon as I saw these photos, I knew exactly why I took them in the first place. I love this car. Lots of Uras goodies, like these Type 4 side skirts.



The car is riding on 17's, which happens to be my favorite diameter for the S13. SSR Professor SP1s are always a nice touch on ANY car! Tire sizes up front are 215/40/17, and the rear is 215/45/17.




And the flames? That's an old Uras rotor cover. I don't think that's my cup of tea, but I've never seen one in person before, so that's really cool. Those are some of the differences between the Japan and American market. I don't think we'd ever support that in the US, but my image of Japan is that they LOVE stuff like that. 

Also, judging by the tire cracks, I don't think these are the tires that he's going to be sliding on. That's definitely some old rubber, and there is no way that that is safe. Probably just some rollers while he gets everything sorted.




The back bumper is once again Uras Type 4, and we can see dual blast pipes and some aftermarket tail lamps. Who is anybody's guess. I think most of the aftermarket stuff looks the same. Even the *gasp, sacrilege * Ganadors. 


Bumperless up front, but I'm sure this was Type 4 as well....

We do get an awesome chance to see the front mount on this car, though. With piping that I'm sure was designed to keep the side mount pipe setup. At least he can keep a full size battery if he wants to run some audio. Running audio off of my Kei-Car Battery sucks.

Also, this intercooler might look small to some people, but if you aren't running a gargantor top mount, this is probably about the right size for a bottom mount turbo.... Japanese opinion. So of the guys still run a side mount IC for bottom mount whirly bois.





And more Uras goodies... in the form of a Type 1 hood vent. Actually seeing this car is what cemented my idea to go with a rivet on hood vent. I love the look. Even if I did a carbon fiber hood, I'd look for a carbon vent and rivet it on.






How can I say this without being wishy‐washy or sounding like an ass... the engine looks awesome while being fairly low tuned. I don't know if I succeeded with that comment or not. Honestly, the engine bay is pretty period correct, matching the styling.

Cars built around the time frame of this one weren't balls-to-the-wall full out drag-car-levels-of-power cars. A guess (and only a guess) is that this thing is around 320-350 hp. Low mount turbo (couldn't see which one and I didn't ask) and a smallish intercooler are the main reasons that I'm at that range. Pure speculation.

Buuuut... let's talk about what we DO know.

We'll start with the BOV in the top picture. That is a *rare* CA Prof Sheepdog BOV. I racked my brain (and Google) for 30 minutes, and finally had to resort to a search for "rare bov" and it was waaaaaaay down in the 3rd page of results. Wow. Used to know this stuff by heart and when I saw it, I slapped myself in the face.

That manifold could be anything under there... HPI, Silk Road.... ANYTHING.

The air cleaner and suction pipe are Sard parts. That one was obviously easy...

The air from the turbo is chilled out via an Apexi Hybrid Intercooler.



The GP Sports cooling panel makes sure that as much air as possible gets into the radiator... I need to get one of these...


Up last, as usual (I'm predictable, ok?!) are some shots from the interior. We can see a c-pillar bar, and some old school style add on speakers sitting on top of the rear deck shelf/privacy screen. What JDM car would be complete without some BRIDE Holding Monster seat action?


Turning around, driver turning inputs are made through a Momo steering wheel and I think I see an old school Japanese GPS past that. Nice.


And because Japanese cars are not impervious to dash cracks.... an awesome dash mat. Sometimes I wish I did that instead of a flocked dash, to be honest...

EXTRA PICTURES












Mar 15, 2019

UpGarage in Fukuoka

Hakata Branch Store Video Tour

by Dustin Mankin

I needed to get some parts for the 180SX, and what better place to go than UpGarage! I can't really say anything here that wasn't in the video, so enjoy the fact that I'm not long winded today! See you guys soon in the next video!

Don't forget to like and Subscribe to our YT Channel, and follow us on our Instagram: @exitevideomagazine !


Mar 7, 2019

Factory Nissan Navan S14 Silvia

Car Spotting Vlog from Fukuoka

by Dustin Mankin



Had a great time a few weekends ago, walking the streets of Fukuoka. My actual goal was to get to UpGarage to look for some parts, but I mean.... COME ON! It's Japan. It's super easy to get sidetracked looking at all the awesome cars. There is all kinds of stuff in this one. I'll make a short list below.

Nissan Navan Silvia S14
FD3S RX-7
JA11 Suzuki Jimny
Land Cruiser

I didn't take any screenshots this time, I just wanna show you guys the video, which you can check out below!


Mar 2, 2019

How to Make a Garage Seat From a 180SX Seat

by Dustin Mankin





***NOTE: These measurements might not be perfect. I built this base with scrap wood, and too be honest it has a VERY SLIGHT leftward lean. But it's perfectly fine to use. If you use these plans as a jumping off point and find the PERFECT solution, please send me a link to your build thread, or send me the measurements and design. I'll show it off here if you would like. Everything I do, I do solely out of my love for the automotive community and I try very hard to be a positive example. So if it isn't perfect for you I apologize! Let's get started!!

Materials

Tools
Saw
Circular saw
Drill
18mm bit
1/4" bit
1/8" bit
3/16" bit
17mm Wrench
Square
Protractor

Supplies
9mmx50mm lag bolts (2)
M10 Bolt
M10 washers (3)
90mm deck screws
25mm deck screws
42mm deck screws
4x4
2x4
Wood scraps for shims

Measurements



Build Process


Now that you have all of your measurements, you can probably go ahead and cut everything down. Since I was using scrap, I had to cut it all a certain way and I was figuring it out as I went. You don't have to do that. You can also take those measurements and cut everything the way you want to. This is just how I did it.

Since I measured as I went in the video, the order is a little bit off. I'll try to post everything a little bit more orderly. Let's start from the front:


For starters, I drew a line where I would want my screws to go, using a square. You DON'T HAVE to do this, but I like things to be somewhat straight. I drilled a small pilot hole that would allow my deck screw to go in easily without splitting the wood, but tight enough to let the screw bite.


After that I used a bigger bit that's about the size of the screw head to make a relief hole the size of the head. This will also prevent splitting or tearing. You can see the hole below. The first one was a little deeper than I wanted, but I went shallower on the second one.


After that I got the thin plate of wood square with my 4x4 (ish) piece and used the pilot holes on my plate as a template to make pilot holes in the 4x4 (ish) beam. After Attaching the plate with screws, you'll notice the plate is a bit wider (deeper?) than the beam. It's ok, because I'll rip this smooth with a circular saw in a bit. If you are looking at the cut list above, just cut it to those dimensions.


Later on, I had to add another shim, because the seat had a bit of a gangsta lean. If you add this now, your 130 degree slant cut will be more accurate. (You'll understand that later.)

Below is a picture from a few steps ahead, when I added the extra shim:


Now that the scraps are bolted down, you'll have to make a 130 degree cut on the beam's edge to make room for the slants in the seat rails. I'd make these about 6cm wide each, to give you wiggle room for the seat.

Now that the front is done, I'll show you the back.


Since I was using scraps, I had to double up on two ripped down 2x4s, but if you have a 4x4 or that might work better. You rip that down to the height. Then instead of buying the threaded plate (see below) you could just buy a 3rd carriage bolt, and save a little bit of money. I leave it up to you. In the long run, I saved money this way, due to the price of wood in Japan, and me wanting to use up scraps.... but you do what you want.

Now you'll want to attach your full 2x4 block to the back beam. Since I was going through three pieces, 120mm deck screws would have been ideal, but I only had 90mm at the house. So I made my pilot holes and I made my counter sunk holes a bit deep to get some penetration. If you were using a solid 4x4 beam in the back, 90mm would be more than fine... 70mm might even do. I dunno.


Given that my situation was what it was, I decided to do one from the front and one from the back. (Stop, perverts.) This would give me some good bite.


Below is about what you will see, but you may have done the front notches by now, if you are going step by step.


Mock everything up with the seat. I used the rear seat hole as a tracing template and traced the circle. Since It was so close to the edge, and I knew a carriage bolt would never grab, I decided on a plate with threads for a 10mm bolt. You can see that plate 2 pictures below.



With my hole traced, I used an 18mm wood bit to drill a hole to allow clearance for the nut on the plate. This worked perfect. Those are the next two pictures below.




The above and below pictures show the attachment of the plate. It's simple. Place the plate in, and then used four deck screws to anchor it down. I think I used like 25mm screws. They worked for this purpose, and insured I didn't hit any of the other screws below.


Now it's time for the sides. I just used 1x4s here, but if you wanna put a few together, take my advice and use 2x4s or 4x4s for the inside rails. Then adjust the deck screw length accordingly and you can attach the sides with lag bolts to make a car seat couch!



Use screws wherever you feel appropriate. You can use my pattern here as an example. The one part that I would say is non-negotiable is the front diagonal pattern. This pattern just makes sure the carriage bolt won't hit anything on the way down. Do this on both sides and you should have something that looks similar below.


PICTURE OF EXTRA WOOD SCRAP

Explanation of Wood Scrap

It's time to put the seat down to this bad boy. This pinnacle of modern carpentry skills, this.... monstrosity of cobbled together scraps...

I started in the rear, since I had put that threaded plate there. If you are using carriage bolts for everything, you might wanna save that for last. Different strokes, folks.

Anyway you go about it, this is roughly how the seat should look, sitting on the wood frame, although at this point, you will probably have your sideboards on, as you can see a few pictures below.

Immediately below is the "driver" side. Notice that this was during test fitting, and I had not made my 130 degree cuts for the front rails, yet.


This is the rear trans tunnel side of the car. The chair just sits there. In the final version, there will probably be one more shim, raising the rear up a bit to cancel any gangster lean.


The next two pictures are of the front, after the 130 degree cuts were made, but before the side pieces went on. This view really lets you see how everything works. Notice the second picture below was before I added the second shim. 



And here it is with the side pieces on, before I bolted anything down. Let's bolt this thing down so we can play some Gran Turismo (Forza if I lived in the States!).


The next three pictures are just of me snugging everything down.  Make it snug, but be careful of over tightening, so you don't pull the threads out of the wood!




Now it's time to chill in the next great addition of your garage/man cave.... whatever you've got!


I also had a great time with my wife, the day before I made the chair, and our muckbank is at the beginning of this video. If you don't like seeing random Japanese food, just skip to the portion where I make the chair... but I always try to show when we have fun, because I really do have a blast with my wife!




 
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