Mar 2, 2019

How to Make a Garage Seat From a 180SX Seat

14 comments:
 

How to Make a Garage Seat From a 180SX Seat

by Dustin Mankin





***NOTE: These measurements might not be perfect. I built this base with scrap wood, and too be honest it has a VERY SLIGHT leftward lean. But it's perfectly fine to use. If you use these plans as a jumping off point and find the PERFECT solution, please send me a link to your build thread, or send me the measurements and design. I'll show it off here if you would like. Everything I do, I do solely out of my love for the automotive community and I try very hard to be a positive example. So if it isn't perfect for you I apologize! Let's get started!!

Materials

Tools
Saw
Circular saw
Drill
18mm bit
1/4" bit
1/8" bit
3/16" bit
17mm Wrench
Square
Protractor

Supplies
9mmx50mm lag bolts (2)
M10 Bolt
M10 washers (3)
90mm deck screws
25mm deck screws
42mm deck screws
4x4
2x4
Wood scraps for shims

Measurements



Build Process


Now that you have all of your measurements, you can probably go ahead and cut everything down. Since I was using scrap, I had to cut it all a certain way and I was figuring it out as I went. You don't have to do that. You can also take those measurements and cut everything the way you want to. This is just how I did it.

Since I measured as I went in the video, the order is a little bit off. I'll try to post everything a little bit more orderly. Let's start from the front:


For starters, I drew a line where I would want my screws to go, using a square. You DON'T HAVE to do this, but I like things to be somewhat straight. I drilled a small pilot hole that would allow my deck screw to go in easily without splitting the wood, but tight enough to let the screw bite.


After that I used a bigger bit that's about the size of the screw head to make a relief hole the size of the head. This will also prevent splitting or tearing. You can see the hole below. The first one was a little deeper than I wanted, but I went shallower on the second one.


After that I got the thin plate of wood square with my 4x4 (ish) piece and used the pilot holes on my plate as a template to make pilot holes in the 4x4 (ish) beam. After Attaching the plate with screws, you'll notice the plate is a bit wider (deeper?) than the beam. It's ok, because I'll rip this smooth with a circular saw in a bit. If you are looking at the cut list above, just cut it to those dimensions.


Later on, I had to add another shim, because the seat had a bit of a gangsta lean. If you add this now, your 130 degree slant cut will be more accurate. (You'll understand that later.)

Below is a picture from a few steps ahead, when I added the extra shim:


Now that the scraps are bolted down, you'll have to make a 130 degree cut on the beam's edge to make room for the slants in the seat rails. I'd make these about 6cm wide each, to give you wiggle room for the seat.

Now that the front is done, I'll show you the back.


Since I was using scraps, I had to double up on two ripped down 2x4s, but if you have a 4x4 or that might work better. You rip that down to the height. Then instead of buying the threaded plate (see below) you could just buy a 3rd carriage bolt, and save a little bit of money. I leave it up to you. In the long run, I saved money this way, due to the price of wood in Japan, and me wanting to use up scraps.... but you do what you want.

Now you'll want to attach your full 2x4 block to the back beam. Since I was going through three pieces, 120mm deck screws would have been ideal, but I only had 90mm at the house. So I made my pilot holes and I made my counter sunk holes a bit deep to get some penetration. If you were using a solid 4x4 beam in the back, 90mm would be more than fine... 70mm might even do. I dunno.


Given that my situation was what it was, I decided to do one from the front and one from the back. (Stop, perverts.) This would give me some good bite.


Below is about what you will see, but you may have done the front notches by now, if you are going step by step.


Mock everything up with the seat. I used the rear seat hole as a tracing template and traced the circle. Since It was so close to the edge, and I knew a carriage bolt would never grab, I decided on a plate with threads for a 10mm bolt. You can see that plate 2 pictures below.



With my hole traced, I used an 18mm wood bit to drill a hole to allow clearance for the nut on the plate. This worked perfect. Those are the next two pictures below.




The above and below pictures show the attachment of the plate. It's simple. Place the plate in, and then used four deck screws to anchor it down. I think I used like 25mm screws. They worked for this purpose, and insured I didn't hit any of the other screws below.


Now it's time for the sides. I just used 1x4s here, but if you wanna put a few together, take my advice and use 2x4s or 4x4s for the inside rails. Then adjust the deck screw length accordingly and you can attach the sides with lag bolts to make a car seat couch!



Use screws wherever you feel appropriate. You can use my pattern here as an example. The one part that I would say is non-negotiable is the front diagonal pattern. This pattern just makes sure the carriage bolt won't hit anything on the way down. Do this on both sides and you should have something that looks similar below.


PICTURE OF EXTRA WOOD SCRAP

Explanation of Wood Scrap

It's time to put the seat down to this bad boy. This pinnacle of modern carpentry skills, this.... monstrosity of cobbled together scraps...

I started in the rear, since I had put that threaded plate there. If you are using carriage bolts for everything, you might wanna save that for last. Different strokes, folks.

Anyway you go about it, this is roughly how the seat should look, sitting on the wood frame, although at this point, you will probably have your sideboards on, as you can see a few pictures below.

Immediately below is the "driver" side. Notice that this was during test fitting, and I had not made my 130 degree cuts for the front rails, yet.


This is the rear trans tunnel side of the car. The chair just sits there. In the final version, there will probably be one more shim, raising the rear up a bit to cancel any gangster lean.


The next two pictures are of the front, after the 130 degree cuts were made, but before the side pieces went on. This view really lets you see how everything works. Notice the second picture below was before I added the second shim. 



And here it is with the side pieces on, before I bolted anything down. Let's bolt this thing down so we can play some Gran Turismo (Forza if I lived in the States!).


The next three pictures are just of me snugging everything down.  Make it snug, but be careful of over tightening, so you don't pull the threads out of the wood!




Now it's time to chill in the next great addition of your garage/man cave.... whatever you've got!


I also had a great time with my wife, the day before I made the chair, and our muckbank is at the beginning of this video. If you don't like seeing random Japanese food, just skip to the portion where I make the chair... but I always try to show when we have fun, because I really do have a blast with my wife!




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